Petchatters Meets Animalchatters
March 28, 2024, 10:06:45 am
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: We are now on Facebook, Search for Animalchatters on Facebook and join in.

To join us in live chat via basic java click the 'Chat Room' tab below        

Please register, to post here!
 
  Home   Forum   Help Arcade Gallery Links Rainbow Bridge Home Page Chat Room Staff List Login Register  

Keep Your Ferret in Good Health for Life

Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Keep Your Ferret in Good Health for Life  (Read 2214 times)
^Purrson^©
Administrator
Full Member
*****

Karma: +2/-0
Offline Offline

Posts: 232


Best Friends


« on: October 18, 2008, 11:06:23 pm »

From: Tilly  (Original Message) Sent: 27/07/2003 9:18 PM

Keep Your Ferret in Good Health for Life


The ferret (Mustela putorious) is an active, playful pet that enjoys human companionship. They are docile and should be handled gently from an early age. They are notorious for slipping through very small spaces, so make sure home exits are well secured if they free roam in the home! Though we usually think of ferrets coloured with their wild type hair coat colour, selective breeding has resulted in over 20 colour varieties. They have been domesticated for about two centuries, and in the United States, in some states it is illegal to own them, so it is important to check local and state ordinances before purchasing a ferret.
Basic Biology

The ferret lives an average of 6 years, and the males are about twice the size of females. Males (hobs) average 1500 g and the females (jills) average 750 g body weight. Ferret kits are born after a 41day pregnancy, and litters average eight young. Weaning is usually done at five to eight weeks of age, and maturity occurs at five to nine months old. The species is carnivorous, which means that they need a diet consisting of animal origin components. Their digestive tract is designed for frequent meals; processing foods only takes a few hours so they will get hungry frequently during a day. Free access to food at all times is the preferred schedule. Sometimes cat food is used as the primary diet, other times a commercial ferret pellet diet is chosen. Home-made "natural source" complex diets have been used, but this option is a challenge because of difficulty preparing a complete and balanced diet with optimal nutrient balance, so it should be done only with veterinary or nutritionist consultation.

The odor of the ferret is a concern for some potential owners. The mature male ferret gives off the strongest odor, but jills in estrus will also have a strong odor. Unlike the skunk, they do not generally empty out the smelly anal gland spray, and do not require anal gland removal. Neutering the ferret will provide a significant reduction in odor (over 90%), but a low-level residual odor will usually remain.

Housing
[/b]

The ferret can be housed outdoors in less harsh climates if proper shelter and bedding are provided, but usually they are housed indoors in small mesh wire enclosures with metal or mesh flooring. Bedding and sleeping areas should be provided. Some caregivers allow free roaming in the home if it is "ferret proofed" when they are home to monitor their activities. A litter box can be used either in the enclosure or in the home. Pellet litter, or shavings are preferred to clumping or clay- type cat litter.
The ferret is a playful animal, and provision of toys and exercise tunnels will help them entertain themselves (and the family!). Toys should be carefully selected, since soft toys will end up chewed up into dangerous pieces that could be swallowed.

Handling and Behavior
[/b]

Handling ferrets takes a bit of practice because of their uncanny ability to squirm and wiggle their way out of a grip. The scruff restraint is very effective when nail trims or other situations require them to be quite still; a nice abdomen rub will help to calm and relax the ferret. To carry them securely, tuck their bodies under the arm along the side of your chest. If the ferret has been handled frequently and gently from an early age, biting will not usually be a problem.
 
Health Considerations
[/b]

Ferrets require very high quality and concentration of protein and fats in their diet. Deficiencies are common unless the diet is carefully formulated. Unless female ferrets are part of a breeding program, they should be spayed since intact females will often develop estrogen hormone imbalances, and this can progress to blood cell changes, and eventually bone marrow suppression. Other common conditions in adults relate to hormone excesses originating from the adrenal glands or pancreas.
It is very important to ensure free access to water at all times since water deprivation leads to serious health complications.

From: Tilly  (Original Message) Sent: 03/09/2002 6:23 PM
 Once again this is some thing I downloaded for personal reference, but do not know where it came from.
 
FEEDING REQUIREMENTS

Ferrets require a high protein diet and plenty of fresh water. Protein levels should be at least 33%. The protein should also come primarily from chicken or poultry. Steer clear of food that lists fish meal as its first, second or third ingredient. Ferrets are not big fish eaters. Minks are. Many so-called ferret foods are nothing more than an adaptation of mink feed. This is not acceptable for ferrets. I have been feeding my ferrets Iams chicken flavored kitten food and have had good results. Recently, I have also found an acceptable ferret food called "8 in 1 Ultimate Ferret Food." It is high in protein and mostly chicken. I mix the Iams with the 8 in 1 for variety for my ferrets.<o:p></o:p>

Ferrets also can be given meats such as turkey cold cuts. Mine do not like beef. Many ferrets will not even try real meat. They can also be given moderate amount of cereals and grains and some fruits and vegetable like, raisins, banana slices, bean sprouts, bland Cheerios, goats milk and cooked egg. What one ferret may love another may turn up her nose to. Their diet should also be supplemented with vitamins such as Ferretone or Ferretvite by 8 in 1 products. Remember that treats are just that, treats, and ferrets should be given them in very small amounts only.<o:p></o:p>

Ferrets eat many small meals a day due to their short digestive tracts. There should always be a supply of food in a bowl for them to eat on their own schedule. Feeding them dry food helps keep their teeth in excellent condition. Canned food tends to go bad too quickly for the feeding habits of ferrets.<o:p></o:p>

Ferrets should never be given any chocolate as you will find your ferret vomiting violently all night or perhaps dead. Chocolate is very toxic to ferrets. They are also lactose-intolerant, so do not feed them milk, ice cream, cheese or other dairy products, no matter how much they beg. Ferrets can ingest goat's milk since it contains little lactose. Things made from goats milk should be fine for your ferret. Do not feed your ferret dog food or sugary sweets.

From: Tilly  (Original Message) Sent: 03/09/2002 6:07 PM
                                           
  Flea Control
John R. Dinsdale, BVMS MRCVS

A new product to the UK is the spot on flea preparation “Advantage” by Bayer this has no product license for use in ferrets, however, it is being used in the USA and has been for some time with no side effects being observed. This information is by personal communication and is not from Bayer who do not have a product license for this drug in the ferret.

Advantage is a drug called Imidacloprid, about three million doses have been sold in the USA without side effects being observed. It is a completely new generation of flea treatment and is not an organophosphate, the drug is also surface acting and does not become systemic. This means that the drug remains on the surface of the animal where it has its action.

In the cat and the dog it will kill fleas within two hours of contact with the drug and is effective for at least four weeks. The drug has a residual effect in the environment and so given correct application and regular use will avoid you having to use environmental sprays. Advantage in these species is shown to be up to 100% effective in killing fleas during that period and can withstand four routine baths, and given monthly will break the flea life cycle. There is no reason why this should not be the case in the ferret but it should of course be remembered that the use of this drug is off license and the drug company could not be held responsible for any adverse reaction.

The drug itself has a very wide safety margin in the species it is licensed for and acts on post synaptic nerve endings found only in insects such as fleas and so should be of no risk to the ferret. It is widely known that a lot of ferret owners already use an extremely effective product called Frontline to great effect and with no reports of side effects, again this drug also has no product license for use in ferrets but is one of the new generation of flea preparations designed to be as safe as is possible for both the animal and the owner, the appearance of Advantage should add another useful drug to the list for effective flea control in the ferret, it is only available through veterinary surgeons as it is a prescription only medicine.

Flea infestation is a significant problem in the ferret and their control should be a matter of routine for the ferret keeper. You may be asked to sign a disclaimer for the use of any prescription only medicine not licensed for use in the ferret as is the case with the vast majority of drugs used in their treatment.

Perhaps with the rapidly increasing popularity of the ferret as a pet and the generally high standard of care the owners take of them that the drug companies will license more drugs for their treatment in the future.

J.R.DINSDALE BVMS MRCVS


« Last Edit: October 18, 2008, 11:37:30 pm by ^Purrson^ » Report Spam   Logged


Breedism is a form of Racism, with a different name to it.
BAN THE DEED, NOT THE BREED

Share on Facebook Share on Twitter

^Purrson^©
Administrator
Full Member
*****

Karma: +2/-0
Offline Offline

Posts: 232


Best Friends


« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2008, 11:21:17 pm »

From: Tilly  (Original Message) Sent: 03/09/2002 6:18 PM
Sorry this is another bit of information I had stored for personal reference, but thought everyone should know. Once again I am taking NO credit for this information.

Female ferrets weigh from 1.5 pounds to 2.5 pounds. Males are much larger in comparison, weighing from 3 to 5 pounds. Male ferrets are said to be more "lap ferrets" while females are notorious for being fidgety. Ferrets come in a variety of colors such as sable, albino white, cinnamon, silvermit and black. There are also many color permutations such as white paws, bibs around the neck, stripes on the head or back and colored tips of the tail. In the old days, albino ferrets were bred because they were particularly easy to spot and retrieve when used in hunting.

Ferrets reach adulthood rapidly in around six months and live an average of 6 to 8 years. The age rule for ferrets is 1 year of a ferrets life = 12 years of a human's life. Ferrets retain their playfulness throughout their lives. But the older a ferret gets, the more likely it is that he will like to sit in your lap. Young ferrets are very fidgety, old ones are more likely to be cuddled.

Adult ferrets sleep around 15 hours a day. They usually coordinate their sleeping habits to conform to their owner's schedule. They will awaken when you're ready for breakfast and go back to sleep while you're out at work. They will awake and be ready to play when you get home again.

Ferrets love to play. They will play with you, another ferret and usually another pet. They love to be chased and to chase you. They enjoy playing tug-of-war, running in tubes of pvc piping, jumping on blankets, hiding behind throw pillows, chasing small fuzzy balls, attacking squeaky little cat toys and in general, being very silly. They are also somewhat uncoordinated. When a ferrets gets excited and begins to dance and jump in little circles of joy, don't be surprised if he jumps himself off of a sofa or runs zig-zaggedly into a wall. Fortunately, they usually aren't phased by this.

All ferrets seem to like to steal whatever they can drag away, either in their teeth or by dragging something like a shoe with their paws. Even things as big as a boot. They like to hide whatever they steal. They usually just put things they find interesting in a place that they consider safe and convenient for themselves. They usually have one or two stashes in your home. Once you find them, you can find anything that turns up missing.

Ferrets are also relatively intelligent for having such silly small brains. They are able to solve problems which interest them. For example, how to get into the cabinet to drag away all the rolls of paper towels. However, this ability to get into and open things can be a problem, so see the section on ferret-proofing. Ferrets have good memory and know where they put things, like a squirrel remembers where he buries a nut. If you move a ferret's "possession," it won't be long until they are back where your ferrets thinks they belong. Ferrets can also develop special attachments to certain toys. One of my ferrets goes crazy when you squeeze her squeaky hedgehog. She immediately comes tearing around the corner to the sound of the toy and tries to snatch it out of your hand. It's as she thinks it's one of her babies crying for mother. I can even squeeze it 100 feet from my house on the lawn and both ferrets will come running out an open door to the sound of the toy. One ferret, Pookie, is the panicky mother of the toy, while the other comes running alongside like a concerned aunt helping to insure the safety of the "baby." The mother ferret grabs it out of my hands and they both run back into the house with tay and tails all puffed up. Pookie grabs onto it so tight with her teeth that you can actually carry her around by the hedgehog as she dangles from it.My males do not seem to care for squeaky noises.
Report Spam   Logged


Breedism is a form of Racism, with a different name to it.
BAN THE DEED, NOT THE BREED
^Purrson^©
Administrator
Full Member
*****

Karma: +2/-0
Offline Offline

Posts: 232


Best Friends


« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2008, 11:33:16 pm »

Ferret Biting Problems/Training

The new ferret owner is frantic. " Every time I pick him up my ferret, he bites me," she explains. "I don't know what to do."

You can turn that nippy ferret into a gentle, friendly pet. Getting your ferret to stop the biting is really a very simple procedure - it just takes a little patience and understanding on your part. Here you'll find all the details you need.

Why does he bite?
First, it might be helpful to consider why your ferret bites. Here are some possible reasons
:

 -  He doesn't know any better. Did you know that baby ferrets bite each other in play all the time? They have pretty thick skin, so the bite that hurts you probably didn't hurt your ferret's little brother very much. Maybe your ferret just needs to learn that while it's ok to bite other ferrets in play fights, it's not ok to bite people.

-  Fear. A ferret who bites is often a frightened ferret. Imagine how you would feel if you were taken away from your mom at just a few weeks of age, then spayed or neutered, then shoved in a tiny box and flown across the country to a pet store. It would be pretty upsetting, wouldn't it? Then how would you feel when some giant stranger took you home? If you were a ferret, you might be upset and worried about all these changes.

-  He's learned bad habits. Let's say a ferret is being held. He bites the human, and the human puts him down. What has the ferret learned? "Gee, when I want to be put down, all I have to do is nip the person who is holding me."
How do we stop the biting?

During this training process, your ferret will be rewarded when he acts properly - that is, every time he doesn't bite when you pick him up. Soon he'll learn that there's something in it for him - he'll have an incentive to act properly, and his behavior will change. If your ferret does bite, you'll scruff him like a momma ferret does, and he'll learn that he made a mistake. In a minute, we'll outline all the details you need about this process.
Stuff you'll need
First, let's make sure you have everything you need in order to get started.

- You'll need a cage for your ferret. This will be useful for all kinds of reasons. At the moment, what we have in mind is a "time out" place which might be helpful in the training process.

-  A ferret-proofed room for ferret play.

-  Toys and fun things. Your ferret needs fun things to play with. See the ferret toy page for suggestions. We're trying to provide a great environment for him so that he'll have a fun, happy life… and lots to do besides nipping you .  Wink

-  Some nummy ferret treats. What does your ferret love to eat? We're looking for a good snack for him, so that you can use this food to reward him when he does the right thing. Try plain cheerios, or a few drops of ferretone or olive oil. (Raisins and are often popular with ferrets, too, but they're sticky and sugary and not so great for your ferret's teeth.)
Techniques you'll need
During this training process, there are two skills which come in really handy: the control hold, and scruffing.

The control hold
This is a very useful way to pick up a nippy ferret. When this hold is used correctly, the ferret cannot bite you, even if he tries. Here's how you do it. First, make a V shape with your index and middle finger. When you pick up your ferret, your index finger will go on one side of his head, and your middle finger will be on the other side. Your thumb and your other fingers will hold your ferret's torso. Once you get the hang of this control hold, you'll find that your ferret can squirm all he likes, but it will be impossible for him to bite you.
Scruffing
Have you ever seen the way momma ferret moves her babies around? She grabs them by the scruff of their necks. She's grabbing the loose skin at the back of baby ferret's neck, and that's what you're going to do, too. To scruff your ferret, grab onto that extra skin at the back of his head and neck, and lift him up. Don't worry; he won't be able to bite you in this position, either!

Some ferrets go completely limp when scruffed. Other ferrets yawn, while still other ferrets may squirm.

When your ferret does bite, you'll scruff him like this, and hold him a foot or so from your face as you tell him NO! You'll hold him there for ten seconds or so, explaining that he is not to bite people. Then you'll put him down and gently release him.
The training procedure
Part one - ferret has fun

Plan to spend a lot of time playing with your ferret and interacting with him. He needs your company, and he needs lots of time spent with you to learn how to act around humans.

Ready to go? Let your ferret out of his cage, and start out by giving him a cheerio or some small treat so he knows you're a nice person. (This time, the treat comes on a saucer or something so he won't have the opportunity to nip you.) Let him explore the room a bit. He'd like to run through some ferret tubes, or explore a few paper bags full of old newspaper or clothing. Or maybe he'll feel like following you around if he wants a playmate.

You might give him a little treat, wait a couple of minutes, maybe even give him another treat. He's learning that this is a cool place.

Now it's time to pick him up. Use the control hold, as described above. With this hold, he shouldn't be able to bite you. Offer him a cheerio or other treat(on a saucer, so your fingers aren't in range) and praise him in a soothing voice for being good. Then gently put him down. He's learning that it's ok to be picked up.

Repeat this procedure every ten minutes or so during play time.

Part two - what if he bites?
If your ferret does nip, grab him by the scruff of his neck (as described above) and lift him up. Tell him NO BITING! and give him a stern lecture for a few seconds. Then put him down, and gently release him. He's learning that biting is no fun, because it leads to scruffing.

Every time your ferret bites, you repeat this procedure.

If he bites a couple of times in a row, he gets scruffed, and he gets put in his cage for a minute or two of time out as well.

You'll need to be patient - remember, when you were a kid, you didn't learn all your good manners in a day. Just as others were patient with you, you'll need to be patient with your new friend.

What if I have worse problems?
Every once in a long while I hear from somebody whose ferret has really bad biting problems. If your ferret bites and won't let go (ouch!) you have a biting problem that's more serious than usual. If your ferret draws blood every time he bites, you have a worse than usual biting problem.

The techniques I've described above will work with these difficult ferrets, but they will take more time, effort, and patience on your part. There is another emergency method that you might consider if your ferret has a very bad biting problem. (Soon I'll get around to putting up a web page describing that technique, too.)
Report Spam   Logged


Breedism is a form of Racism, with a different name to it.
BAN THE DEED, NOT THE BREED
^Purrson^©
Administrator
Full Member
*****

Karma: +2/-0
Offline Offline

Posts: 232


Best Friends


« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2008, 11:44:36 pm »

From: Tilly  (Original Message) Sent: 03/09/2002 6:04 PM
Here is a website for ferret lovers who are looking for information about ferrets. These include "Ten Tips For New Ferret Owners," and some very cute computer wallpapers.
 
http://www.modernferret.com/downloads/index.html
 
Report Spam   Logged


Breedism is a form of Racism, with a different name to it.
BAN THE DEED, NOT THE BREED
^Purrson^©
Administrator
Full Member
*****

Karma: +2/-0
Offline Offline

Posts: 232


Best Friends


« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2008, 11:49:42 pm »

From: Tilly  (Original Message) Sent: 02/09/2002 9:32 PM
 
Keeping your ferret cool

Ferrets can adapt to many circumstances, but heat and high humidity are not among them. As the temperatures rise, it's important to take precautions ensuring your ferret is safe and comfortable. Simply put, ferrets should never be kept in temperatures over 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit; lower temperatures (60's and 70's) are much better.


Many owners aren't aware of it, but a ferret can get heatstroke in temperatures above 80 degrees. Such heatstroke can kill your ferret very rapidly, often within minutes, so it is important to take precautions. If you must travel with your ferret on hot days, make sure to use a car with air conditioning. Try not to set the ferret right in front of the vent; direct drafts can make them sick.

Alternately, freeze a two-liter bottle of water, wrap it in a towel and lay it in the crate with the ferret. Make sure to add some extra bedding to keep the bottle from rolling around in the crate. Make certain your ferret has access to plenty of water, and bring a spray bottle (ones with a nice mist work the best) to spray him down if he looks as if he's getting too warm.

Never leave your ferret in a car in hot weather, as the inside of a car can reach deadly temperatures in a matter of minutes - even with the windows open. If you can't bring ferrets inside (store, office, friend's home, restaurant), leave them at home.


Some signs of heatstroke are panting, open-mouthed breathing, mucus coming from the mouth and nose, lethargy (inactivity), disorientation, vomiting, toe pads becoming bright red and then turning from purple to blue, limpness, seizure and collapse.

If you suspect your ferret is suffering from heatstroke, get him out of the heat immediately. Put cool (not cold) water on the ferret's paws to help cool him off. You can also place a cool wet cloth on the ferret's head. Do not dip the ferret in cold water, as this will cool him too quickly and cause him to go into shock. Give him water or electrolyte replacer (e.g., Pedialyte, Kao-Lectrolyte) if he is conscious (never try to give water to an unconscious ferret). You may have to hand-feed him the water or use a feeding syringe.


Heatstroke may also deplete sugar levels, so a sugar source such as Nutrical, Karo Syrup (corn syrup), or maple syrup can be given to help restore sugar levels. Even if your ferret responds to this treatment, you should still have your veterinarian check him to make sure he is not dehydrated. He might still need to have subcutaneous fluids (injected under the skin) to regain hydration.

Compiled by Bob Snare
 
Purr here, this tip is very similar to general safety rules for ALL pets, Heat in cars are a killer, even if the space is ventilated when its hot, leave your pets home.
Report Spam   Logged


Breedism is a form of Racism, with a different name to it.
BAN THE DEED, NOT THE BREED
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by EzPortal
Bookmark this site! | Upgrade This Forum
SMF For Free - Create your own Forum

Powered by SMF | SMF © 2016, Simple Machines
Privacy Policy